Every mushroom grower eventually faces the same question: what equipment do I actually need? The answer depends on where you are in your growing journey, but whether you're inoculating your first grain jar or scaling up to a small commercial operation, the right tools make the difference between fighting contamination and producing consistent, clean flushes.
We've been through this process ourselves. We started with a still air box and a borrowed pressure cooker, and we've gradually built out a lab that handles everything from agar work to bulk substrate production. Along the way, we've bought equipment that was worth every penny and equipment that collected dust. This guide is the result of that experience.
Here's everything you need, organized by category, with our honest recommendations and links to our detailed reviews.
This post contains affiliate links. When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology work at no extra cost to you.
Sterilization: Pressure Cookers
Sterilization is the foundation of mushroom cultivation. Without it, you're fighting an uphill battle against contamination every single time. A pressure cooker that reaches 15 PSI is non-negotiable for sterilizing grain spawn, agar, and liquid culture media.
You need sustained heat at 121C (250F) for at least 90 minutes to kill endospores, and only a pressure cooker can get you there. An Instant Pot or standard pot with a lid won't cut it.
What to Look For
The most important factor is capacity. A 23-quart pressure cooker fits approximately 7 quart-sized mason jars, which is a practical batch size for hobby growers. Going smaller means more batches, more time, and more propane or electricity. Going bigger (like a 41-quart All American) makes sense if you're scaling up to commercial production.
The second consideration is construction. Aluminum cookers are lighter and more affordable. Cast aluminum cookers with metal-to-metal seals (like the All American line) never need gasket replacements and last decades.
Presto 23-Quart Pressure Canner (01781)
The workhorse that 90% of mushroom growers should start with. Fits 7 quart jars, heats up quickly, and gets the job done without breaking the bank. We ran ours for two years before upgrading.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Read our full review: Best Pressure Cookers for Mushroom Cultivation
Scaling up? Best Autoclaves for Mushroom Growing — when a pressure cooker isn't enough anymore.
Clean Air: Flow Hoods and Still Air Boxes
Contamination enters your work through airborne particles. Every time you open a jar, transfer agar, or inoculate a bag, you're exposing sterile material to whatever is floating in the air. Clean air equipment solves this problem.
There are two approaches: a laminar flow hood that pushes HEPA-filtered air across your workspace, or a still air box (SAB) that creates a calm, enclosed environment where airborne particles settle out.
Still Air Box (Beginner)
A still air box is where most growers start, and honestly, you can do excellent work in one. It's a clear plastic tote with arm holes cut in the side. The enclosed space limits air movement, which limits contamination. We have a complete build guide that walks you through the whole process.
Cost: Very budget-friendly. A plastic tote and a few minutes of work.
Read our guide: How to Build a Still Air Box
Laminar Flow Hood (Intermediate to Advanced)
A flow hood is a game-changer. HEPA-filtered air flows in a laminar (non-turbulent) pattern across your workspace, creating an essentially sterile zone in front of the filter. Your contamination rate drops dramatically, and you can work more quickly because you're not fighting the clock against settling particles.
The downside is cost. Commercial flow hoods are a significant investment. DIY builds cut that substantially but require some mechanical aptitude.
Bonsai HEPAFLOW 12"x12" Compact Flow Hood
Made in the USA with a 99.99% HEPA filter. The compact footprint fits on a desk, and the build quality is excellent. Perfect for home growers who want proper clean air without building their own.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Read our full review: Best Laminar Flow Hoods for Mushroom Cultivation
Compare your options: Laminar Flow Hood vs. Still Air Box
Fruiting Chambers
Once your substrate is colonized, you need a controlled environment for fruiting. The three most popular options are monotubs, Martha tents, and shotgun fruiting chambers.
Monotub
A monotub is a large plastic storage tote modified with holes for air exchange. It's self-contained, low-maintenance, and excellent for species like oyster mushrooms that tolerate a range of humidity levels. Most growers running bulk substrate use monotubs.
Read our guide: Monotub Fruiting Chamber Guide
Martha Tent
A Martha tent is a small greenhouse frame with a cover, outfitted with a humidifier and controller. It fruits multiple blocks on shelves and gives you precise control over humidity and fresh air exchange. This is the setup we recommend for anyone growing multiple species or running more than a few blocks at a time.
Read our guide: Martha Tent Setup Guide
Read our full review: Best Grow Tents for Mushroom Fruiting
Shotgun Fruiting Chamber (SGFC)
The classic beginner setup: a plastic tote filled with damp perlite and drilled with holes on all six sides. It works well for PF Tek cakes and small grows, but you'll outgrow it quickly.
Environmental Control: Humidity Controllers
Mushrooms need consistent humidity during fruiting, typically 80-95% relative humidity depending on the species. Manually misting your fruiting chamber works for a single tub, but it's not sustainable when you're running multiple blocks or a Martha tent.
A humidity controller automates this. It plugs into your humidifier and cycles it on and off to maintain your target humidity. Set it to 90%, and it does the rest.
Inkbird IHC-200 WiFi Humidity Controller
The controller we recommend to every serious grower. WiFi lets you monitor and adjust humidity from your phone. Dual outlet design means you can control both a humidifier and a dehumidifier if needed.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Read our full review: Best Humidity Controllers for Mushroom Growing
Related: What Temperature Do Mushrooms Need?
Drying and Preservation: Dehydrators
If you're growing mushrooms, you're going to have more than you can eat fresh. A dehydrator lets you preserve your harvest for months, concentrating flavour and making storage simple. Properly dried mushrooms (cracker-dry, no flexibility) store indefinitely in airtight containers.
The key specs that matter are airflow direction, tray capacity, and temperature range. You want a dehydrator that reaches at least 57C (135F) for efficient drying, with enough tray space to handle a full flush.
Myco Labs 350W Mushroom Dehydrator
The only dehydrator designed specifically for mushroom growers. Extra tall trays fit whole mushrooms without cutting, and the 360-degree airflow dries evenly across all trays.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Read our full review: Best Dehydrators for Mushroom Drying
Sealing: Impulse Sealers
If you're working with mushroom grow bags, you need a way to seal them. An impulse sealer creates a heat seal across polypropylene bags in seconds. Unlike a constant-heat sealer, an impulse sealer only heats when you press the handle, making it safer and more energy-efficient.
The width of your sealer needs to match your bag size. Most standard mushroom grow bags are 20-25 cm (8-10 inches) wide when laid flat, so a 30 cm (12-inch) sealer gives you comfortable clearance. If you're working with larger bags or commercial quantities, a 40 cm (16-inch) sealer is worth the upgrade.
METRONIC 12-Inch Impulse Sealer
The right size for most mushroom grow bags. Heavy-duty construction, adjustable heat settings, and replacement parts are easy to find. This is the one we use in our own lab.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Read our full review: Best Impulse Sealers for Mushroom Grow Bags
Lab Tools
These are the small items that make sterile work possible. None of them are expensive individually, but having them on hand when you need them saves a lot of frustration.
Scalpels and Blades
You need a scalpel for agar transfers, cloning, and cutting grain spawn. A #10 or #11 blade on a #3 handle is the standard in mycology. Buy blades in bulk because you'll go through them quickly, and a dull blade is a contamination risk.
Surgical Scalpel Handle #3 with #10 Blades (10-Pack)
A #3 handle fits the most common blade sizes for mycology work. Get a 10-pack of blades at minimum. We flame-sterilize between transfers and swap in a fresh blade every session.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Parafilm
Parafilm is a self-sealing wax film that you wrap around the edges of petri dishes after inoculation. It allows gas exchange while preventing contaminants from entering. It's far superior to electrical tape or plastic wrap for sealing plates.
Parafilm M Laboratory Film (4" x 125')
The standard in mycology labs worldwide. One roll lasts months, even with heavy agar work. Stretch it around your plates after inoculation and you'll see contamination rates drop immediately.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Alcohol Lamp or Butane Torch
Flame sterilization between transfers is critical. An alcohol lamp provides a steady flame that you can pass your scalpel or inoculation loop through. A small butane torch works too and is arguably safer because it's easier to control. Either way, you need a flame source at your workstation.
Isopropyl Alcohol (70%)
The most used consumable in any mycology lab. You'll spray it on your hands, your workspace, your tools, the outside of jars, and pretty much everything else. Buy it by the litre. 70% concentration is more effective as a surface disinfectant than 99% because the water helps the alcohol penetrate cell walls.
Measurement: Scales, Thermometers, and Hygrometers
Digital Scale
You need a scale for measuring grain, substrate ingredients, and liquid culture components. A basic kitchen scale that reads in grams is fine for most work. If you're doing precise agar recipes, a scale that reads to 0.1g is helpful but not essential.
Digital Kitchen Scale (0.1g Precision)
Accurate to 0.1g, which is precise enough for agar recipes and liquid culture measurements. Tare function, stainless steel platform, and runs on AAA batteries. Nothing fancy, but it works.
When you buy through our links, it supports our mycology research at no extra cost to you.
Thermometer / Hygrometer
A simple digital thermometer/hygrometer lets you monitor conditions in your fruiting chamber, incubation area, or grow room at a glance. We keep one inside the Martha tent and one in the incubation closet. Look for one with a probe or external sensor so you can mount the display outside the chamber.
Magnetic Stir Plate
If you're making liquid culture, a magnetic stir plate is the single best upgrade to your workflow. A spinning stir bar fragments mycelium, oxygenates the broth, and distributes nutrients evenly, turning a multi-week colonization into a process that can be ready in days. Most growers use the INTLLAB MS-500.
Read our full review: Best Magnetic Stir Plates for Liquid Culture
Moisture Meter (Optional)
A grain moisture meter can remove the guesswork from substrate preparation. If you're consistently getting too-wet or too-dry grain, a moisture meter tells you exactly where you are. It's not essential, but it's nice to have when dialling in your grain spawn process.
Building Your Equipment List by Stage
Not everyone needs everything at once. Here's how we'd prioritize based on where you are:
Beginner (First Grows)
If you're just getting started with grow kits or PF Tek, you need very little:
- Still air box (homemade)
- Pressure cooker (23-quart Presto)
- Isopropyl alcohol and spray bottle
- Kitchen scale
- Thermometer/hygrometer
- Basic dehydrator
Intermediate (Making Your Own Spawn)
Once you're making spawn, working with agar, and running monotubs:
- Everything above, plus:
- Scalpel and blades
- Parafilm
- Alcohol lamp or torch
- Impulse sealer (if using grow bags)
- Humidity controller
- Martha tent or dedicated fruiting area
Advanced (Scaling Up)
If you're producing for sale or running a serious hobby operation:
- Everything above, plus:
- Laminar flow hood (commercial or DIY)
- Autoclave / large sterilizer (All American 75X)
- Magnetic stir plate for liquid culture production
- Grow tent or Martha tent for dedicated fruiting
- Commercial dehydrator (Excalibur 9-tray)
- 16-inch impulse sealer
- Combined temperature and humidity controller
Where to Go Next
Each category above links to our detailed review and buying guide where we compare specific models, share our hands-on experience, and help you choose the right option for your budget and goals.
If you're brand new to mushroom growing, start with our Complete Guide to Growing Mushrooms or our Best Mushrooms for Beginners in Canada guide. Those will give you the big picture before you start assembling your equipment list.
And if you're ready to skip the equipment phase and just start growing, check out our ready-to-grow kits and spawn that let you jump straight into your first harvest.